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Considering that they sell one of those, I’m going to assume they’ve heard of it. ;)
Those look pretty cool.
But I’m confused about the marketing around the cpu/ram, etc. Does that really matter for a soldering iron? (Serious question, not being snarky).
I get they’re using that tech to make it adjustible/smart, but it’s a soldering iron, not a pocket computer.
Is there some way those specs genuinely matter? Or is it just to say “we’re using the latest tech to provide controls”?
I love my Pinecil V2. It was cheaper than my 40W entry level Weller station and heats up way faster. I run it off my Anker USB power supply and also my Anker USB power bank. The power bank only outputs 30 or 40 watts though so I might upgrade that in the future. High wattage power banks are expensive though :/
That Pinecil has a 30 day warranty? Not a lot if confidence in the longevity of their product.
Here in Europe it is sold with a 2 year warranty, but it also cost nearly three times as much (65 euro vs 25,99)
My pinecil has lasted for years.
Pinecil is 26$ and has a screen.
You’re probably adding $25-35 to that for a USB-C power supply that can handle it, but yes, it’s cheaper than this. $50-75 if you want it battery powered.
But yeah, I’m not sure what iFixit is bringing to the market that’s better than what exists.
It’s 80$ and doesn’t include a battery. But the ifixit one does include a USB cable and a bevel tip (cone tips are bad)
So it’s more like $26 plus $4 for pine USB cable, plus $6-11 for a ts100 bevel tip. $41 vs $80
I use a pinecil and it’s great. Tips are cheap and a standard size, it takes usb-c power and has a good user interface.
Not really sure what ifixit is trying to accomplish with this overpriced iron.
Pine have so many neat things.
Tying a rechargeable battery to a single function device seems off-brand for iFixit.
- edit, I am wrong. I didn’t RTFM. Humble pie is good sometimes.
It’s a multi-use battery.
The battery can be used to charge whatever you want. A phone, laptop, headphones, or anything else with USB. Also, the battery is user replaceable and the product repair diagrams are posted online.
IMHO, it looks like they’re practicing what they preach, and it’s all designed for longevity and right to repair.
I edited my original post. Thanks for bringing the pie!
The Smart Soldering Iron will set you back $80, while the Soldering Station, which includes the soldering iron and the battery pack, costs $250.
Most interesting to me is that they put the display on the soldering station/battery pack thingy instead of the iron itself.
I bought my soldering station with air solderer and iron solderer for about 40$ from AliExpress, the ones with IR bottom heater cost around 90-100$
What’s the IR bottom heater for?
IR bottom heaters are usually not strong enough for reballing. They’re for boards that are hard to solder, because there’s a lot of copper or a heatsink for example.
The bottom heater preheats the whole board, not to soldering temperatures but enough to make soldering a lot easier.
Reball of chips on gpus and motherboards of PCs and gaming consoles
Ah. Other than fixing the old Xbox360 RROD , I’ve never needed to do any BGA work, just circuit soldering
Those Nvidia cards used in mining and AI need reballs regularly, also ps4 south bridge often falls off, also intel sockets sometimes need reball, also you can upgrade ram on your phone and Nintendo switch
Oh for sure. I’m not knocking those that can do it, just that my regular soldering skills are shit enough that I’d probably be hesitant to reball something more complicated even with the right gear :-)
So basically a copy of the battery pack T12 devices from China. Well done. You fixed an already fixed problem.
What I want from a battery soldering iron is a field-replaceable 18650 in the handle, not Webserial.
Build a 18650 battery bank and plug in a pinecil or ts100. A solder iron with a 18650 would be heavy and uncomfortable for soldering.
I would accept a bit of an awkward balance for being self-contained.
If you need to not have a cable, the butane ones would be a better fit.
Having used a butane iron before, I don’t think it would. They don’t have the temperature control modern digital irons can, and they’re forbidden on flights.
I haven’t done the math, how much runtime could you get out of a single 18650? They’re pretty stout, but it seems like they’d be a bit underpowered.
Milwaukee 12v batteries are 3 cells (I think they’re a little smaller than 18650), and you can run through a battery pretty quick (I believe they’re 1.5AH). Though I don’t know how efficient their heating design is.
Assuming the M12 CP1.5 battery pack, it’s probably three 18650s. Specifically, it’s probably three LG HB series 18650s, which handle high burst loads well, but hold only 1500 mAh. A single Sony VTC6 holds 2/3 the energy of one of those packs. Wait… why am I speculating? Youtubers tear down power tool battery packs on video all the time, and someone did that one. They’re Samsung 15Ms, which are a little worse than HBs.
Anyway, short runtimes are fine for most field repairs, which is the whole point of something entirely self-contained. Spare batteries can extend it indefinitely, but a battery soldering iron is probably not what I’d pick for extended soldering sessions.
Lol, I get it, I often start doing the math and realize “someone has already done this”.
Cool, thanks for the link. I already knew the little 12v batteries suck (though they work fine for the intended purpose, like impact driver or work light). I kill them with any other tool.
Yea, I was just thinking is the runtime reasonable enough that having spare batteries is a sufficient approach. Like you said, long runtime isn’t required, 15 minutes total runtime is probably more than enough (though that would be hell on battery life cycle).
Since I already have a slew of Milwaukee batteries, I’m trying to avoid things with 18650, except where form factor matters (like my flashlights). A Single Battery to Rule Them All (or at least most things).
I love my ifixit precision screwdriver, so I’d be a fan and would try this out.
The thing is once I switched to a butane iron (portable, hot in 20 seconds, awesome fire) I don’t have any interest in anything with a wire coming off of the back of it. battery or no, the wire being in the way is ass and is also crap
edit: maybe it doesnt have a wire?
edit 2: maybe I shoulda read the article before typing? 5 second heat-up time, wow… seeing as I am a fucking idiot and am also very tired, can someone who is smart tell me if the iron has a battery itself? the pack is for recharging the small battery in the pen?
It does not have an internal battery but can use any battery pack that can do 100W output.
I pre-ordered this for a few reasons. One, my experience with butane irons was very different than yours I guess. I hated how long they took and how finicky they were. Then I had to find a safe place to put it while it cooled. This has a cap that can handle the high temp with no issue.
When I need a portable iron it’s to do small quick soldering with long waits in between. This seems perfect for that.
fair enough, thanks for the response.
my ‘extra hands’ station w/ the two alligator clips to hold the subject, magnifying glass w/ led also has a holster for a hot iron, so I pop the hot iron in that after soldering.
the wire coming from the iron, whether it goes to a battery pack or the 250 eur smart battery is still the hangup for me. I build large things with nicrocobntrollers in them, so I need to soldier in super awkward places. a wire connecting the iron to anything is a massive liability.
Id be interested to hear how you get on with it though
Electronics usually wants to control the temperature range more tightly than a butane soldering iron could do. Fine for plumbing work, though. Electronics soldering irons usually don’t have the thermal mass to handle plumbing work.
My biggest complaint about the ts100, Pinecil, and the iFixit station is that the tips are specialized and rather expensive.
Pinecil tips are standardized and third party options are extremely cheap on aliexpress or amazon
Having used an expensive Metcal, I would like someone to develop that level of performance for less. I want the precise thermostat and high quality tips, but I don’t solder enough to justify the expense. I am happy to see iFixit driving innovation in this market though. Weller needs some real competition.
Love my Hakko. Paid a little over $100 for it several years ago. It costs 10x as much as the cheapest option but is 100x better.
How precise are you talking? Usually, cheaper soldering stations get that way by not having a lot of thermal mass, which is particularly needed for desoldering. Otherwise, the PID control tends to keep things good enough. Tuning the PID parameters can make a difference, but once you have a heater and a heat sensor, the software is more or less the same for everyone.
Ah any reason why Firefox decided not to include WebSerial?
Maybe you don’t want to buy the Station, or you left it at home. In either event, you can simply plug the iron into your computer and configure it via WebSerial.
You’ll need a browser based on Chrome to pull this trick off, as Mozilla has decided (at least, for now) to not include the capability in Firefox. In testing, it worked perfectly on both my Linux desktop and Chromebook.
Unfortunately, plugging the iron into your phone won’t work, as the mobile version of Chrome does not currently support WebSerial. But given the vertical layout of the interface and the big touch-friendly buttons, I can only assume that iFixit is either banking on this changing soon or has a workaround in mind. Being able to plug the iron into your phone for a quick settings tweak would be incredibly handy, so hopefully it will happen one way or another.
The WebSerial interface not only gives you access to all the same settings as plugging the iron into the Power Station does, but it also serves as the mechanism for updating the firmware on the iron.
Removed by mod
I’ll give it a shot. Seems interesting to have something USB powered that can solder.
I’ve been using a Pinecil which is USB-C powered. It heats up in seconds and the temp can be adjusted easily. The big plus to me is how small it is. It’s so much easier to handle than a standard iron, and the tips are push-in and can be locked with a screw so they’re easy to swap.
Let us know how it works. It sounds pretty cool, but ive been disappointed with battery powered soldering irons.
I always thought the “fix” to a traditional soldiering iron was a hot air pencil.
Do those exist?
Yep, for decades. They used to be much larger consuming the space of a large table. Now they are small units like this:
Just search for “surface mount rework” or the nickname “hot air pencil”.
I wonder if you can run it off any USB C PD that will do 100w+ without buying the battery pack. I know my MBP USB C power supply does at least 100, if not more on MagSafe.
The article seems to say it can, though they’re promoting their own, of course
USB C PD is a standard so yes, as long as the device you purchase to power it supports 100w PD via USB C then will work.
Cool, thanks!
Spam.
I just blocked OP, “Ghostal Media”, but I liken it more as essentially an adblock
Look at their post history. They arent a spammer by trade. The article posted does read like a paid review, though. And the other posters here have done similar while offering counterpoints.
Why this instead of an industry-standard station like an entry level Weller? The Wellers got replacement parts, especially tips which are consumables. I have the pervious 50W model and it has worked well in any job that can be done with that power level.
In my experience with soldering, the quality of the tip is the most important part. Then the quality of the solder and flux. Then having a set of soldering tools like wick, pump, stripper, and most of all - a third hand. Then temp adjustability. I had a digital solder station before I had those tools and I did almost as shitty solder jobs as I did with the basic Weller soldering iron I had before it. Once I got the ability to keep the parts stable so I can hold the solder in one hand and the iron in the other, introduce the solder at the joint and melt it in-place with the iron, like the manuals say, the quality went way up. I could even do some functional SMD work using my phone’s macro cam as a microscope.
I think it’s as much about getting a soldering iron into every home the way that a hammer, multibit screwdriver seem to be. It’s potentially a huge market to tap into. When I was doing this particular shopping I bought a usb-c powered soldering iron with an open source OS.
Oh I’m not questioning their motivation. I’m wondering if it’s a good deal for prospective buyers, given the price, compared to known good tools.
I have one of these https://webcat.cornwelltools.com/JP213123-Cornwell®-Cordless-Soldering-Iron-p371692246 as well as a traditional wired soldering iron. While I like the cordless soldering iron’s portability and it’s fine for solder cups or solder splicing wire, it’s not adaptable enough for me to use on a PCB or for micro solder and if I’m honest I’d want a micro solder setup for that anyway. I’ve owned expensive soldering irons and cheap ones (my current corded model I believe is one of ifixit’s), the general problem is that I have too many random tips lying around that I don’t know which iron they go to. Some are junk (because the iron broke etc). Some probably could be used interchangeably.
At least with the cordless one the tips are replaceable, and pretty unique in appearance so I know exactly which iron they go to.
The problem with the cordless one is the heat it can generate and the fact that it’s not adjustable. The problem with the corded one is that I have to lug a 50’ extension cord up to every plane to use it, and often there’s not a safe place to put it down while it’s hot so I have to prep every solder cup, joint, splice etc and then plug it in and turn it on. I’ve got stands galore and none of them is the safest.
I’d be willing to try this out just for the sake of the added protections it provides.
