My Torrid combat boots are falling apart, so I’m in the market for a new pair that are specifically platform boots that come in black.
Unfortunately, the pair from Solovair (pictured) that I’ve had my eye on for a while (their 8-eye derby platforms) is no longer being sold, and it was replaced with a visually worse alternative where the zippers face outward.
I’ve never owned Martens before, but knowing that Martens aren’t what they used to be, how much do I have to lose by picking up a pair of Jadon III’s instead? If anyone knows any alternatives in the same style that are also Goodyear Welt, that could also be an option.
Docs suck now, solovair’s are the old doc quality you want
I have a pair of solovairs that are about 15 years old. They need some fix up, but are still quite wearable. I am old, they do not offer my body the comfort it needs, so I mostly only wear them to shows and nazi kicking parties these days.
I was actually doing a tonne of research back in April on Martens vs Solovairs. Ultimately: go with Solovairs. I’ve had mine since April and have had 0 issues since finding the right ones and getting through the break-in period.
A few of my notes:
- Go down 1/2 a size. I recall reading a Reddit thread where users said to go down a full size. I wear a 10, but a 9.5 was the right size for me. I did have to exchange mine, but it was free so Injust had to wait
- There definitely is a break-in period. The shoes will be a bit uncomfortable, but shouldn’t be unbearable. Once they’re broken in - a week for me IIRC, they’re a dream
As other lemmings have mentioned: Martens used to be good. But something happened, Martens switched to cheap labour & cheap materials, and a lot of the original workers left & started Solovair.
Solovair was the company that used to make the old school Martens that everyone loved, but when they lost the contract with Martens they decided to make the same boots but under their own name.
So the solovairs are much better as they are basically the same as the old docs in build quality (some people think old docs are still better than new solovairs as the leather is thicker I think, but to find a pair of old Martens without much wear can be a bit pricey).
Also when buying new boots like these prepare to have to wear them in, took my solovairs about 6 months to become really comfortable. And if possible avoid zippers, if you want a boot that can come off easily go for a Chelsea style with elastic sides, they last a lot longer.
I had a pair of Docs which fell to bits on me after about a year of regular use. I’ve since got 2 pairs of boots and a pair of trainers from Solovair and, after wearing in, they are the most comfortable footwear I’ve ever owned. I’ve worn, mostly the boots, every day for work for about 2 years now with no problems at all. I’ve even managed to get them mostly waterproof with liberal applications of dubbin wax.
Check out the outlet store (like on the main website), you can pick up shoes with slight defects or end of lines for significant discounts over new.
I’ve recently purchased the 6 eye astronaut greasy from solovair and absolutely love them. I don’t own a whole lot of boots, so my review isn’t that grounded, but so far so good. Gets used around 3 times a week, not a lot of hiking since I have a desk job. No break in needed. I don’t have the optional sole but they are still comfy. If u order the solovairs buy a half size down, a lot of the product reviews will also mention this. It’s also convenient to buy their dubbin wax, if u go for the greasy; or standard leather care for the high shines.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkhCcvfVHRs&t=627s for a more in depth review. The short answer is: Solovairs are better than Docs. Unless u can find some vintage Docs
Martin’s, but admittedly that’s pure nostalgia. I have pairs from the 90’s still in perfect shape.
I literally have every pair of Docs I ever bought, and I bought my past pair in 2003 when they moved production to China/India. One or two are barely hanging in there as lawn shoes, but they are hard-wearing.
Resoleing them requires specialized equipment, or at least nontypical knowledge on how to do it. There is a woman out of Portland that does it. Boilerroom shoe repair. Last I checked, solovair didn’t have the resole option available on their site. But it’s been a while since I’ve checked.
Ended up switching to Chelsea’s just because I’m hoping I dont have to jump through hoops to get them repaired.
Is this just the Docs that are hard to resole, or also Solovair too?
They both use the same tech, so both are relevant as far as I know. I only own Solovair though, so I’m not sure about Docs
The issue is the heat sealing of the sole to the welt.
Typical Goodyear wilted shoes have a removable sole that separate from the welt. However, modern Docs use heat to melt the sole and welt together, creating a permanent bond.
Is it for work? Red Wing boots are great, durable and comfortable. Get the insoles while you’re at it. Insoles are consumable.
If for aesthetics, I don’t think Red Wing has quite what you’re looking for.
They wouldn’t be work boots, but I love the Minnesota rep. Red Wing Claras are my favorite boots ever.
So aesthetics, mainly. This would mostly be for wearing to concerts, or otherwise just in my rotation of urban going-around boots.
I’d say take a look at their catalogue. Maybe you find something that interests you. I know they do have some black leather boots, I don’t recall if they have combat boots like you pictured.
https://www.redwingshoes.com/heritage/ I have a pair of the iron rangers that I’m moderately pleased with.
Check out newrock boots.
Here’s the thing: quality Goodyear welted boots do not come with zippers. Zippers are a sign of cheap, crappy boots.
No zippered boots will be BIFL.
So, what do you do if you don’t want to have to deal with laces?
Chelsea boots. https://thursdayboots.com/products/womens-duchess-black-chelsea-boot
I collect and restore shoes, and I can tell you all about construction + types of leather + what truly makes a boot last a lifetime. Feel free to ask me all your questions.
This is false. For example I have a pair of Carmina zippered boots that are definitely GYW.
Not that it is particularly helpful, but I still have my docs that I bought 30 years ago. They literally survived my house burning down, I dug them out of the ashes. Everything I have heard is that new docs suck and Solovair are essentially what the old docs are, so I’d go with those.
